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Buceo en Columbretes: El manco libre

Las Islas columbretes son un pequeño archipiélago de origen volcánico situado a unos 60 km mar adentro de la provincia de castellón, con un ecosistema único y endémico en algunas ocasiones y que han provocado su  conversión en reserva protegida. Esta condición de reserva hace que la vida submarina prolifere en las islas de manera espectacular, y aunque muy dependiente de las condiciones climáticas por el fondeo y la navegación, la oportunidad de bucear en estas islas merece y mucho la pena.

Las islas ya eran conocidas por griegos, cartagineses y romanos, que las bautizaron como islas «Ofidias» por sus serpientes. De ahí el nombre derivó a «columbretes» (culebras), aunque las últimas serpientes fueron vistas en la isla en 1913, tras una matanza de las mismas por parte de los trabajadores en la isla, que las exterminaron a base de minuciosas batidas por el peligro que suponían para sus vidas.

 

Plano de la Isla Grossa, Columbretes
Plano de la Isla Grossa, Columbretes

 

Las islas fueron usadas como refugio por piratas y contrabandistas, e incluso como  diana por el ejercito americano, ya que fue un campo de tiro antes de ser declarado reserva. A día de hoy 4 personas entre biólogos y personal del faro viven en la isla, en turnos de 14 días en la isla y 14 en tierra firme.

 

Buceo en Columbretes: La inmersión en el Manco Libre

[box] El manco libre es la  primera de las grandes rocas que continúan el contorno de la Isla Grossa al lado sur. Esta isla, con forma de «C», esta formada por los bordes de un volcan con 4 calderas, de las cuales la más exterior es la menos definida y casi desaparecida, debido a su exposición a las inclemencias del mar.

La inmersión de hoy transcurre pues en el Manco libre, la mas exterior de las rocas, y que formaba parte de esa caldera hoy casi indefinida.

 

Manco libre desde la boya nº1
Manco libre desde la boya nº1

 

En nuestro caso, comenzamos la inmersión desde la boya número uno, debajo del faro, y en el otro extremo de la bahia, por lo que hemos de navegar un buen trecho a una profundidad de entre 3 y 5 metros para no gastar más aire del necesario antes de tiempo, sobre una llanura de rocas de unos 25 metros de profundidad, debido a la prohibición que hay en Columbretes de aletear en superficie si vas provisto de equipo autónomo de buceo….

Comenzamos el descenso al divisar la pared del Manco Libre, hasta llegar a la base a unos 22 metros, donde encontramos rocas desprendidas que forman pequeñas cavernas donde es frecuente encontrar langostas enormes y alguna morena. Dejamos la pared a nuestra derecha rodeando el islote, hasta que llegando a la punta encontramos un ancla de apróximadamente un metro de alto y muy incrustada, por lo que es posible que te la pierdas si no te fijas con especial atención.

El ancla marca el comienzo de la verdadera inmersión, ya que nada más doblar la punta el espectáculo está asegurado. Los bancos de sardinillas se entremezclan unos con otros siguiendo los contornos de la roca, y cuando salen al azul comienzan a reflejar los rayos del sol a medida que se mueven uniformemente en perfecta formación. Los meros, como siempre en columbretes, son poco huidizos y están asegurados, y podemos encontrar ocasionales grupos de corvinas, bolas de espetones girando en pausado círculo, y rápidos atunes brillando en el azul mientras cazan a velocidad de vértigo.

 

Espetones en el manco libre
Espetones en el manco libre

 

El fondo de la pared lo encontramos en torno a los 30 y 35 metros, pero si queremos disfrutar de la inmersión durante más tiempo, merece más la pena permanecer en una cota media entre los 20 y los 25 metros, donde el consumo de aire es más moderado. Debemos tener cuidado con el consumo, la profundidad y no entrar en Deco, ya que en nuestro caso, el trayecto de vuelta es largo. La inmersión finaliza cuando lleguemos a 120 bares, momento de dar la vuelta por donde hemos venido a menor cota y tras doblar de nuevo la punta enfilar el barco.

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